{"id":131739,"date":"2023-10-07T02:51:39","date_gmt":"2023-10-07T02:51:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/bluemull.com\/?p=131739"},"modified":"2023-10-07T02:51:39","modified_gmt":"2023-10-07T02:51:39","slug":"rick-stein-the-way-the-young-cook-is-bewildering","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/bluemull.com\/lifestyle\/rick-stein-the-way-the-young-cook-is-bewildering\/","title":{"rendered":"Rick Stein: The way the young cook is bewildering"},"content":{"rendered":"
Rick Stein has been under the knife and was afraid he might not survive. \u2018It was scary before I went into the operation,\u2019 says the chef, talking for the first time about his open heart surgery last year.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\u2018Afterwards you realise if you had died you wouldn\u2019t have noticed, because you were under the anaesthetic.\u2019<\/p>\n
When he came round at the Royal Brompton Hospital in London, the 76-year-old had a revelation that he says has changed his life and his work. \u2018I started thinking hard about how I live and how we cook. I want to simplify things.\u2019<\/p>\n
His post-op philosophy is outlined in a new book called Rick Stein\u2019s Simple Suppers, full of intimate essays as well as brilliant recipes.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\u2018An operation like that stops you in your tracks and makes you think about who you are,\u2019 Rick says. \u2018It\u2019s time to review your life. You\u2019ve been through a very life-threatening experience.\u00a0<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Rick Stein (pictured) has been under the knife and was afraid he might not survive. \u2018It was scary before I went into the operation,\u2019 says the chef, talking for the first time about his open heart surgery last year<\/p>\n
‘The surgeon says it\u2019s no more dangerous than the appendix these days, but to have your heart taken out, repaired and put back in, personally I\u2019d say that\u2019s big!\u2019<\/p>\n
There was no alternative for a chef who has loved the good life, including lashings of butter, cream and wine in his cooking and travel shows.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\u2018I had a valve in my heart that had to be replaced because it wasn\u2019t working properly. It was getting worse and worse. The cardiologist finally said, \u201cYou\u2019re gonna have to have the op.\u201d\u2019<\/p>\n
How much did it hurt afterwards? \u2018Your lungs are sort of flattened during the process. They don\u2019t want a build-up of horrid stuff, so they make you cough. It must be like childbirth, it\u2019s so painful.\u2019<\/p>\n
Even so, he was reluctant to help himself. \u2018I think it\u2019s a British thing. I don\u2019t like making a fuss,\u2019 says Rick in the gentle burr viewers find so soothing, influenced by his half a century in Cornwall.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\u2018They give you morphine which is self-induced, you pump the drugs when the pain is getting intolerable. I stopped, though.\u00a0<\/p>\n
‘This Aussie nurse came up to me and said, \u201cHow come you\u2019re not using it?\u201d And I said, \u201cWell, you know, it\u2019s morphine.\u201d She said, \u201cDo you think you\u2019re gonna get addicted? Don\u2019t be such a fool! Just use it.\u201d\u2019<\/p>\n
Rick looks well enough today, though, and he\u2019s happily chatting about his wife Sarah, or Sas, and her son and daughter, who are in their 20s. \u2018I\u2019m on my second wife, I\u2019ve been married to Sas for how many years? I should remember, 23?\u2019<\/p>\n
Er, the wedding was in 2011 actually, although they met back in 1997 when he was on tour in Australia. She was a publicist, 20 years his junior. Rick was married.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\u2018My stepchildren, who I\u2019ve known ever since they were tiny, are a second family. Zach and Olivia came into the ward with a present so I knew they were pleased to see me.\u00a0<\/p>\n
‘But I remembered visiting a poorly aunt when I was young and thought that if I was them, I really wouldn\u2019t know what to say after a while. So about a quarter of an hour in I said, \u201cDo you know, I\u2019m feeling a bit tired. I wonder if you\u2019d mind going.\u201d\u2019\u00a0<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
When he came round at the Royal Brompton Hospital in London , the 76-year-old (pictured) had a revelation that he says has changed his life and his work. \u2018I started thinking hard about how I live and how we cook. I want to simplify things.\u2019<\/p>\n
He chuckles. \u2018They said later that it was the best thing I could have done. It works for everyone concerned.\u2019<\/p>\n
Rick\u2019s middle-aged sons Edward, Jack and Charlie help run his business empire and their mother Jill, his first wife, still has a stake too.\u00a0<\/p>\n
Being alone in hospital meant there was plenty of time to think \u2013 and of course he thought about food.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\u2018It was slightly morphine-induced because I was so drugged,\u2019 he jokes, but in the introduction to Simple Suppers Rick says that the catalyst was an unexpectedly great meal at the hospital.<\/p>\n
\u2018The night before the operation they brought me a haddock fillet seasoned with salt and cracked black pepper, then lightly fried, served with a dressing of olive oil, thinly sliced spring onions, diced roasted red peppers, lemon juice and, I swear, a touch of soy sauce. It was divine and so simple. Who said hospital food was so terrible?\u2019<\/p>\n
Hang on, was this an NHS hospital? \u2018Yes, but I was on an insurance job.\u2019\u00a0<\/p>\n
So he was eating from the private menu, which must be very different from the awful experience so many NHS patients across the country complain about \u2013 although it must be said the Royal Brompton has won awards for the food it serves to patients of all kinds.<\/p>\n
\u2018I was thinking, \u201cI could write something about how great hospital food is now.\u201d Then I woke up, completely bamboozled with drugs. I had chosen roast lamb and mint sauce for lunch, but it was terrible,\u2019 he says, grimacing.\u00a0<\/p>\n
The lamb was so overcooked it stuck to the roof of his mouth, the mint sauce was gummy with flour. In contrast, his mental juices started flowing. \u2018I thought, \u201cHow did they get this so wrong? What do we cook at home?\u201d\u2019<\/p>\n
Rick became emotional at the memory of simple childhood dinners, as well as the meal he\u2019d enjoyed on the eve of theatre.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\u2018Having a major operation and surviving it induces mixed feelings of pain and euphoria,\u2019 he writes in the book.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\u2018I decided there and then, light-headedly, to write a cookbook about simple food and how to concentrate on doing simple dishes, like that haddock.\u2019<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
The chef’s post-op philosophy is outlined in a new book called Rick Stein\u2019s Simple Suppers, full of intimate essays as well as brilliant recipes. Pictured,\u00a0Rick and his wife Sarah<\/p>\n
His definition of simple is to keep the number of ingredients down, use things you might have in the fridge or freezer or can get easily in a supermarket, and cut preparation time.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\u2018Ideally, no dish should take more than an hour,\u2019 he says, and some are far quicker.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\u2018I\u2019ve tried to find simpler ways to make complicated dishes. I\u2019ve made fish pie simpler by using shop-bought pastry rather than mash. Instead of making a proper b\u00e9chamel sauce I use cornflour and stock, which works a treat.\u2019<\/p>\n
He speaks like a man who has had an epiphany about his own work. \u2018There are so many really pointless processes, like frying your onions, garlic and chillies separately.\u00a0<\/p>\n
‘A lot of the time there is no difference if you do them together. I look at some of my early recipes and think, \u201cHow could I have been so stupid?\u201d So I\u2019ve cut out my own verbosity.\u2019<\/p>\n
Rick is also taking lessons from what he calls \u2018the bewildering way the young cook these days\u2019.\u00a0<\/p>\n
He means his stepdaughter Olivia, who fills her cupboards with ready-made pastes, sauces and pre-chopped ingredients, and picks up ideas from TikTok, Instagram and YouTube.<\/p>\n
\u2018I asked Olivia to give me a taco recipe and she bought lardons with pimento, prepared tomato sauce and grated Parmesan.\u00a0<\/p>\n
She\u2019s been to catering college so it\u2019s not that she can\u2019t make these things, she doesn\u2019t see the point. If there\u2019s a quicker way of doing something, she will,\u2019 says Rick.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\u2018I\u2019m not being critical about this, I\u2019m taking it on board. I\u2019m learning from the next generation about how to cut corners.\u2019<\/p>\n
It\u2019s quite a change for someone who\u2019s spent his whole life teaching us how to cook from scratch \u2013 although he does still love doing things the old way.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\u2018I like the smell of fresh ingredients when you\u2019re making a stock or using a pestle and mortar. The whole process is meditative. Cooking is a sort of therapy. It\u2019s an affirmation of who we are.\u2019<\/p>\n
Rick grew up on a farm in the Cotswolds and the family\u2019s food came from their land. His father took his own life when Rick was 18 and the grief-stricken lad went travelling to Australia, America and Mexico.\u00a0<\/p>\n
When he returned he took an English degree at Oxford and then moved to Padstow, a small fishing port in Cornwall, where he met Jill and they opened The Seafood Restaurant in 1975.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Rick pictured with Keith Floyd (right) in the 80s<\/p>\n
This man who is so genial on screen admits he was a shouty chef back in the day. \u2018I was. Not because I\u2019m aggressive, but the conditions were tough, the hours were longer and I never had the back-up staff I needed, so when I lost it, more often than not it was caused by panic.\u2019<\/p>\n
Much has changed. \u2018What\u2019s lovely now is that you go into The Seafood Restaurant kitchen and nobody\u2019s shouting.\u2019\u00a0<\/p>\n
Chefs can\u2019t get away with that kind of behaviour these days can they? \u2018No. There\u2019s quite a lot of females in the kitchen as well. You couldn\u2019t be a shouty chef, it just wouldn\u2019t be acceptable. But I never picked on anybody. And I always apologised when I lost it.\u2019<\/p>\n
TV producers spotted Rick as a guest on a Keith Floyd show in the mid-80s, and his own programmes followed a similar style, including travels in France, Spain and India.\u00a0<\/p>\n
Through it all he kept Padstow as his base and now has the original restaurant, a bistro, a cafe, a seafood bar that is also a fishmonger, a cocktail bar, a chippy, several shops and various places to stay.\u00a0<\/p>\n
He also has several other restaurants in England and Australia. \u2018I get back to Padstow every fortnight. I\u2019m never happier than when I\u2019m there,\u2019 Rick says.<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
Surviving the operation seems to have made Rick (pictured) much more optimistic. \u2018Yesterday I met a professor who was talking about omega-3 and how we all need to eat more fresh fish. He was 93 years old. So I think there\u2019s plenty more to do!\u2019 He smiles.<\/p>\n
The Cornish nationalists who dislike his presence in Padstow have quietened down after nearly 50 years, but new controversy erupted recently when chip shop customers complained at paying \u00a32 for tartare sauce.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\u2018Comparing our sauce to cheaper ones is like chalk and cheese,\u2019 he says gruffly.<\/p>\n
\u2018We\u2019ve got decent olives, capers, gherkins, fresh eggs, parsley, sunflower oil in there. Yes, it is \u00a32, but you\u2019re getting \u00a32 worth of bloody nice tartare sauce. It\u2019s not like we\u2019re trying to rip anybody off.\u2019<\/p>\n
Simple Suppers is out in a cost-of-living crisis, but Rick says it is timely, because the price of dining out has caused a surge of interest in home cooking.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\u2019We\u2019re in tough times, but food in this country is in quite rude health. You couldn\u2019t have published a book like this 20 years ago, people wouldn\u2019t have been so involved in home cooking.\u2019<\/p>\n
He\u2019s filming a new series around Britain and is off to Australia soon. It all sounds exhausting for a man of his age. \u2018If you\u2019ve spent most of your life cooking in a busy kitchen, nothing\u2019s hard.\u2019<\/p>\n
Does the new simplicity mean cutting down on other things \u2013 like booze? \u2018As you get older you naturally drink less, but I still love drinking. I love beer and wine. I\u2019m not that fond of anything else, apart from the odd negroni.\u00a0<\/p>\n
‘God, the thought of having to give up wine is not good! You get stiffer as you grow older but I swim every day. I was lucky the operation was a success. You\u2019re given a new lease of life.\u00a0<\/p>\n
‘I did recover really quickly, in about six weeks. It was quite a positive experience, to be honest.\u2019<\/p>\n
Surviving the operation seems to have made Rick much more optimistic. \u2018Yesterday I met a professor who was talking about omega-3 and how we all need to eat more fresh fish. He was 93 years old. So I think there\u2019s plenty more to do!\u2019\u00a0He smiles.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\u2018I love cooking, I love filming. As long as you\u2019re working, you\u2019re doing things that you\u2019d like, you just go on until you can\u2019t. So generally I\u2019m quite optimistic. It\u2019s good to be alive.\u2019<\/p>\n
Simple Suppers by Rick Stein (BBC Books, \u00a328) is out on 26 October<\/span><\/p>\n